Pickles – Tsukemono

Tsukemono first appeared way back in Japanese history in the days before refrigeration when pickling was used to preserve food. As a result, some traditionally prepared types of pickles can be kept practically indefinitely. The different methods used to make tsukemono vary from a simple salting or vinegar brining, to more complicated processes involving cultured molds and fermentation.

All kinds of vegetables and some fruits are used to make tsukemono including, but not limited to, Japanese radish (daikon), cucumber, eggplant, carrot, cabbage, water lily root, ginger, shallots and plums (ume). Sometimes seaweed and other seafood are added to pickle mixtures for flavor and variety. Some pickling methods are also used to preserve and flavor seafood and meat dishes.

Below are the some of the most popular types of pickles:

Salt pickles, or shiozuke, are the simplest and most common types of pickles. The most basic consist simply of lightly salted, sliced vegetables, which result in pickles with the crisp texture and mild flavor of fresh (usually seasonal) vegetables. Heavily salted pickles, on the other hand, are more involved to prepare and have strong, complex flavors. Among these are red pickled Japanese plums (umeboshi), which are often used to flavor rice balls (onigiri).

Nukazuke are common household pickles fermented in a mixture of roasted rice bran (the hard outer skin of the rice that is removed when polishing the rice grain), salt, konbu, and other ingredients. Whole vegetables are stirred into the mash and allowed to cure anywhere from a day to several months. The resulting crisp, salty and tangy pickles are then rinsed clean, sliced and served. Nukazuke are rich in lactobacillus and said to aid in digestion.

  • Saké Lees (kasuzuke)

    Kasuzuke are imperishable pickles preserved in a mixture of sake lees (the yeast mash that is left over after filtering sake), salt, sugar and sweet cooking wine (mirin). They are allowed to cure for anywhere from several days to several years, and the resulting pickles may be slightly alcoholic with flavors that vary from sweet and mild to strong and pungent depending on how long they were cured for.

  • Soya Sauce (shoyuzuke)

    Shoyuzuke are pickles preserved in a soya sauce base. This method produces a wide range of pickles with flavors that vary from light and crispy to dark brown, salty, sweet relishes such as fukujinzuke. Note that shoyuzuke is a different preservation method than tsukudani, which are foods preserved by cooking in soya sauce and sweet cooking wine (mirin).

  • Vinegar (suzuke)

    Pickles brined in vinegar are known as suzuke. Rice vinegar is commonly used as the pickling agent and lends a crunchy texture and sweet and sour flavor to the resulting pickles. However, rice vinegar has a low acidity and suzuke pickles will not keep long unrefrigerated.

  • Miso (misozuke)

    Similar to nukazuke, misozuke pickles are made by covering vegetables in miso, a fermented soya bean mash. These types of pickles tend to be crisp with a salty miso flavor. Misozuke and nukazuke are made of similar vegetables, such as cucumbers, carrots and eggplant, and it may be difficult to tell the two types of pickles apart by just looking at them. Misozuke is also a popular way of preserving and marinating meat and fish.

Common pickle dishes

The following are some of the more common types of tsukemono that travelers are likely to encounter. Most can be found nationwide, except where noted, however the exact ingredients of each dish may vary from region to region and household to household.

 

Umeboshi

Umeboshi are Japanese plums (related to apricots), which have been salted and dried. The wrinkly red pickles are extremely salty and sour, although sweeter versions exist. Umeboshi serve as a preservative and digestive. They are eaten with all types of traditional meals, and often accompany the rice in boxed lunches (bento). Umeboshi are also one of the most popular fillings for rice balls (onigiri).
 

Takuan

Takuan is made of Japanese radishes (daikon), which have been sun dried and pickled in a mixture of salt, rice bran and sugar. The finished product is a sweet, crunchy pickle that is sliced and served alongside rice or other dishes. Takuan ranges from brownish white to fluorescent yellow in color. In Akita Prefecture they are additionally smoked and enjoyed as iburigakko. 

Nukazuke

Assortments of nukazuke pickles consisting of cucumber, carrots, eggplant, daikon or turnip (kabu) are often served alongside set menu meals (teishoku) or as a part of the rice set (shokuji) in kaiseki ryori (Japanese haute cuisine) meals. Often similar assortments of vegetables pickled in salt or miso are served instead.

Kyuri Asazuke

Kyuri asazuke are simple pickles made of cucumbers marinated in a salt brine (shiozuke) that is sometimes seasoned with konbu, togarashi pepper and/or vinegar. Whole cucumbers served on a stick are often pickled this way and sold by street vendors at festivals, temple approaches and popular tourist spots, especially during spring and summer when they are a refreshing treat.

Hakusai no Sokusekizuke

Hakusai no Sokusekizuke is a quick and simple salt pickle dish made of lightly salted hakusai cabbage which is often mixed with carrots and cucumber and seasoned with yuzu zest, konbu and togarashi pepper. The result is a salty, crisp pickle with a slightly spicy citrus flavor. It is one of the most common pickles found in Japan and is often served alongside set menu meals (teishoku).

 

Narazuke

Narazuke are deep brown pickles native to the Nara Region of Japan, from which they get their name. Vegetables, typically daikon, uri or cucumber, are soaked in sake lees (kasuzuke) in a process where they may cure for several years. As a result the pickles have a strong, pungent flavor which is often punctuated with an overtly alcoholic bite.

 

Shibazuke

Shibazuke is a Kyoto specialty pickle made of cucumber, eggplant, perilla leaves (shiso), ginger and myoga (a mild flavored relative of ginger) pickled in plum vinegar (umezu), a byproduct of making pickled plums (umeboshi). The salty, slightly sour, purple pickles are commonly served in Kyoto cuisine.

Senmaizuke

Senmaizuke is another Kyoto specialty pickle. It is made of thin slices of turnip arranged brined in sweet vinegar seasoned with konbu and togarashi pepper. The resulting thin disks (senmaizuke means thousand layer pickle) are sweet and sour with a slightly crunchy texture.

Saikyozuke

Saikyozuke (lit. West Kyoto pickle) are slices of fish, typically a whitefish such as cod or sablefish, which have been preserved and marinated in miso (fermented soya bean) paste. The slices are then grilled or broiled, and served either hot or at room temperature. Fish preserved this way gets a sweet, caramelized flavor due to the miso.

Nozawana

Nozawana are a specialty pickle from Nozawa Onsen in Nagano Prefecture; however, they are commonly served all over Japan. Nozawana are a type of turnip greens which are dried and pickled in a salt brine seasoned with togarashi pepper and wasabi. The salty, slightly spicy leaves and stems are served cut into bite-sized pieces or chopped into a fine relish. 

 

Matsumaezuke

Local to Matsumae Town in Hokkaido, matsumaezuke is an interesting combination of regional specialties of Hokkaido such as squid, konbu, kazunoko (herring roe) and carrots, seasoned with sake, soy sauce and mirin (sweet cooking wine). It has attained nationwide popularity. 

Gari

Most tourists are probably already familiar with gari, the thin slices of sweet pickled ginger that is served alongside sushi. Gari has a sweet and sour flavor with a slightly spicy bite. It is meant to be eaten between sushi pieces as a palate cleanser, so that the unique flavor of each piece can be fully appreciated. Gari is naturally light yellow, but may also be dyed pink. 

Beni Shoga

Beni Shoga is julienned young ginger that has been pickled in plum vinegar (umezu), a byproduct of making pickled plums (umeboshi). The bright red, salty and spicy pickles are served as a garnish on top of a variety of dishes such as gyudon, takoyaki and yakisoba.  

Fukujinzuke

Fukujinzuke is a mixture of Japanese radish (daikon), lotus root, cucumber and eggplant which are preserved in a soya sauce and sweet cooking wine (mirin) base. The sweet brown or red relish is served as a garnish to Japanese curry (kare raisu). 

Rakkyo

Rakkyo are sweet pickled scallions that are served alongside Japanese curry. Rakkyo lend a sweet, crunchy bite that, like fukujinzuke, helps to augment the spicy and salty flavors of curry.


Kyo-Tsukemono Daiyasu A tsukemono specialty shop located very close to Heian Shrine. With several branch stores nationwide across Japan, here at the main store you can sample almost all of the different types of tsukemono offered within its spacious interiors. Using in-season vegetables procured from contracted farms throughout Japan, the tsukemono here is made from natural seasonings, without the use of any synthetic chemical additives. They offer unique tsukemono you won’t find anywhere else, so please sample the many different varieties, and we hope you will find a flavor that fits your tastes. One of the many conveniences on offer here are the large selection of packages available according to purpose, such as for gifts or home use. If you aren’t comfortable with some of the stronger tasting tsukemono, please ask a staff person, “Tabeyasui tsukemono wo osietekudasai.”  (“Please find me some tsukemono that are easy to eat.”)   http://www.daiyasu.co.jp/html/page28.html


Nishiri The Gion branch of Nishiri, a shop famed for its tsukemono (pickles), is a short 6-minute walk from Yasaka Shrine. This traditional establishment is popular enough to be known by nearly all of the locals. In addition to standard pickles, the Gion shop is known for its collection of unique pickles that are found nowhere else in the world. The Japanese delight in the diverse lineup of products ranging from everyday vegetables pickled in soy sauce, salt or miso to more unique products that use ingredients like apples or cherry blossoms. At Nishiri, emphasizing the natural flavors of the vegetable is a top priority. For this reason, they the carefully manage the fields and seeds used to grow their pickling vegetables. Only the vegetables of superior quality are made into pickles and sold to customers.   

Address: Giommachi Minamigawa, Higashiyama-ku Kyoto-shi, Kyoto, 605-0074
Open every day 10:30am – 8pm
 

Main Store is located across from Nishi Honganji Temple, and where I had a wonderful tasting experience on my last trip arranged by Kyomachiya Ryokan Sakura – Honganji.


Murakami-Ju Honten

Murakamiju is a famous and traditional senmaizuke shop known throughout Japan. There is one original store in Kyoto, and 8 branches around Japan, 7 of which are located in the food halls of Takashimaya department stores. These stores can be found in major cities such as Kyoto, Tokyo and Osaka, where their exclusive brand of pickles are on offer all year round.

Senmaizuke is a delicious, traditional Kyoto pickle made from Shogoin turnips. The Shogoin turnip harvest takes place from November to February, so this is very much a winter food. Senmaizuke is also rather unique in comparison to other Kyoto pickles, as it is presented as extremely thin disc shaped slices. It is said that the name of this pickle originates from the possibility to produce 1,000 super thin slices from a single turnip.

Recipes for senmaizuke have changed recently, with pickling in sweet vinegar on the increase. Murakamiju, however, stick to their tried and trusted method according to an old family recipe. This involves a process where the finest Shogoin turnips from Tanba are pickled only with kelp and fine salt from Hokkaido. The resulting sweetness of the turnip is chiefly attributed to the seaweed, and the effect of the lactic fermentation process.

Original store details;

190 Sendo-cho
Nishikiyamachi-shijo sagaru
Shimogyo-ku
Kyoto
Tel: (075) 351 1737

Opening times:
Weekdays: 9.00 am ~ 7.00 pm
Weekends & holidays: 9.00 am ~ 7.30 pm

Although Staff don’t speak English, they are very kind and friendly. So please feel free to ask any questions as they will try to answer by gesture.


Tsukemono can also be found in the Nishiki Market


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-tX4sFq89gs

Japanese pickles (漬物, tsukemono) are an important part of the Japanese diet. They are served with practically every traditional meal alongside rice and miso soup. They are valued for their unique flavors and commonly used as a garnish, relish, condiment, palate cleanser or digestive.